If you've been spending late nights in the workshop, you already know that hunting down quality spur making supplies is half the battle when crafting a custom set of rowels. There is something deeply satisfying about taking a raw chunk of steel and turning it into a piece of functional art that a cowboy will wear for the next twenty years. But to get there, you need the right materials. It doesn't matter how good your eye is or how steady your hand is with a welder if the steel is junk or your silver won't stick.
I've spent a lot of time talking to makers, and the one thing everyone agrees on is that your finished product is only as good as what you put into it. Whether you're a hobbyist looking to make your first pair or a seasoned pro with a backorder list a mile long, staying stocked up on the right gear is a constant task.
The Foundation: Choosing Your Steel
Before you even think about the flashy silver or the fancy rowels, you have to talk about the backbone of the project. Most makers I know tend to lean toward 4140 chromoly steel or mild steel, depending on what they're trying to achieve.
If you want something that's going to hold up to some serious abuse and can be heat-treated for extra durability, 4140 is usually the way to go. It's tough, it grinds well, and it takes a beautiful finish. On the other hand, mild steel is a lot easier to work with if you're doing a lot of heavy forging or if you're just starting out and don't want to fight the metal every step of the way.
When you're browsing for spur making supplies, you'll often see "spur blanks." These are a lifesaver. Cutting a spur shape out of a thick plate of steel with a bandsaw or a torch is time-consuming and, frankly, a bit of a workout you might not want. Buying pre-cut blanks allows you to jump straight into the shaping, grinding, and decorating phases, which is where the real fun happens anyway.
Rowels, Pins, and the "Jingle"
Let's be honest: the rowel is the star of the show. It's the part that does the work and, quite often, the part that makes that iconic sound we all love. When you're looking for rowels, you'll find everything from simple five-point stars to complex, multi-point designs that look more like a gear than a piece of tack.
It's not just about the rowel itself, though. You have to think about the rowel pins. You'd be surprised how many people overlook this part of their spur making supplies. A cheap pin will wear out or snap, and there's nothing worse than a rider losing a rowel out in the brush because a ten-cent pin failed. I always recommend using high-quality stainless steel or hardened steel pins.
And then there's the "jingle." Some guys want a loud, crisp ring, while others want something a bit more subtle. This often comes down to the fit between the rowel, the pin, and the shank. If you want that classic sound, you have to ensure there's just enough play for the metal to vibrate without it being so loose that it feels sloppy.
Buttons and Buckles
The buttons are those little round pieces that hold the leather straps in place. They might seem like an afterthought, but they're a huge part of the spur's geometry. If the buttons are set at the wrong angle, the spurs won't sit right on the boot, and the rider is going to be miserable.
Most suppliers offer a few different styles, from simple "swinging" buttons to fixed ones. Most modern makers prefer the swinging variety because they allow the strap to find its own natural position. When you're picking these out, make sure they're sturdy. They take a lot of tension and constant movement, so this isn't the place to skimp on quality.
Adding the "Bling" with Silver and Copper
This is where you get to show off. A plain steel spur is a tool, but a silver-mounted spur is a statement. When you start looking at decorative spur making supplies, you'll usually be looking for German silver, sterling silver, or copper.
German silver is a popular choice because it's affordable, durable, and polishes up to a bright shine that looks a lot like the real deal. However, if you're making a high-end custom set, nothing beats the look of sterling silver. It has a softness and a luster that you just can't replicate with alloys.
You'll also need silver solder and flux. If you've ever had a piece of silver pop off a spur after a week of use, you probably had a dirty bond or used the wrong heat. Getting your silver to "flow" perfectly onto the steel is an art form in itself. It takes practice, but having the right grade of solder makes a massive difference.
Tools of the Trade
You can't really talk about supplies without mentioning the tools you need to use them. While you can get by with a basic welder and a grinder, there are a few specialized items that make life a whole lot easier.
- Jeweler's Saws: If you're cutting out intricate silver overlays by hand, a good jeweler's saw is mandatory. You'll go through blades like crazy, so buy them in bulk.
- Engraving Blocks: If you plan on doing any hand-engraving, you need a way to hold the spur steady. A heavy ball vise or a dedicated engraving block is worth its weight in gold.
- Buffing Wheels: To get that mirror finish, you're going to need a variety of buffing wheels and compounds. Start with a coarse grit to take out the scratches and work your way up to a fine jeweler's rouge.
Finishing Touches: Bluing and Browning
Once the spur is built and the silver is polished, you have to decide how to treat the steel. Some people like the "bright" look, but a lot of traditionalists prefer a dark finish to make the silver pop.
Cold bluing or heat bluing are common techniques. Heat bluing gives you those beautiful blues and purples, but it can be tricky to get a uniform color across the whole piece. Cold bluing is easier to control but might not have the same depth. Then there's "browning," which gives the steel a rustic, weathered look that's very popular in the ranching world. Whatever route you go, make sure you have the right chemicals and oils on hand to seal the finish and prevent rust.
Where to Find Everything
So, where do you actually get all this stuff? Back in the day, you had to know a guy who knew a guy, or you had to forge everything from scratch out of old files and scrap metal. Nowadays, we've got it a bit easier. There are several dedicated shops online that specialize specifically in spur making supplies.
It's usually best to find a supplier that understands the craft. You want to buy from people who know the difference between a cutting rowel and a show rowel. Don't be afraid to call them up and ask questions. Most of these suppliers are small businesses run by people who love the trade, and they're usually happy to help you figure out exactly what you need for your specific project.
Keeping Your Shop Stocked
The worst feeling in the world is being halfway through a build and realizing you're out of silver solder or you just broke your last 1/8-inch drill bit. I've learned the hard way that it pays to keep a little extra of the essentials on hand.
Build a "kit" for yourself. Keep a drawer for your rowels, a bin for your steel blanks, and a safe spot for your silver sheet and wire. When you see your stock getting low, put in an order before you actually need it. It'll save you a lot of frustration and keep your workflow moving smoothly.
Making spurs is a labor of love. It's loud, it's dirty, and it requires a level of patience that most people just don't have. But when you pull that finished set out of the vise, give them a spin, and hear that perfect jingle, you know it was worth the effort. Just make sure you start with the right supplies, and the rest will fall into place as you develop your own style. Happy smithing!